Abstract

Sustainable fashion in India faces the dual challenge of preserving cultural craft traditions while meeting rising consumer demand for ethical products. This paper presents a case study of Sanajing Sana Thambal, a women-led microenterprise in Manipur founded by Bijiyashanti Tongbram. Drawing on discarded lotus stems from Loktak Lake, the enterprise produces lotus silk using a zero-chemical, zero-dye process, thereby linking waste reduction, rural women’s livelihoods, and environmentally responsible textile production. Based on secondary sources and field reports, the study analyses the firm’s Segmentation, Targeting, Positioning (STP), marketing mix, and SWOT profile to illuminate its competitive and social value propositions. The case highlights a central dilemma: whether to mechanise and scale up production to satisfy growing demand or maintain handcrafted exclusivity to safeguard ecological and cultural integrity. The findings contribute to understanding how sustainable textile ventures navigate growth constraints and consumer purchase intentions in emerging markets.

Keywords: Sustainable Fashion, Lotus Silk, Rural Women Entrepreneurs, Eco-Entrepreneurship, Cultural Heritage, Purchase Intentions, India.

It was a warm morning in May 2019 in the small village of Sanajing Sana Thambal, nestled in Manipur’s lush green valley. The air carried the scent of blooming lotus flowers from Loktak Lake, India’s largest freshwater lake, shimmering under the sun. For Bijiyashanti Tongbram, a 32-year-old entrepreneur, this picturesque setting had always been more than just a view - it was an untapped opportunity. Standing at the edge of the lake, she gazed at the abundant lotus stems floating on the water, which most villagers considered a waste product.1 Her thoughts were far from ordinary; she envisioned something extraordinary - weaving silk from lotus fibers, a fabric as rare as it was sustainable.

The idea wasn’t without its challenges. Traditional weaving methods in Manipur were deeply rooted in cotton and silk, but lotus silk was unheard of in India. The process was labor-intensive, requiring the delicate extraction of fibers from thousands of lotus stems for just one scarf.3 The costs were high, and the market was uncertain. Yet, Bijiyashanti’s determination stemmed from two powerful beliefs: reviving local craft traditions and offering an eco-friendly alternative to the fast fashion industry.

As she prepared to pitch her idea to potential partners and government schemes, one question loomed large: Could this ambitious venture become a viable, scalable business while remaining true to its sustainable roots?

Company Background

Sanajing Sana Thambal is a modest village in Manipur, a state in India’s northeast known for its scenic beauty and rich cultural heritage.4 The region has long been associated with traditional handloom weaving, an art deeply embedded in Manipuri households. Women in these communities often weave intricate patterns on looms, producing vibrant shawls, saris, and stoles that reflect the state’s ethnic identity. Despite its cultural significance, the handloom sector in Manipur faces serious challenges: dwindling incomes, lack of innovation, and competition from machine-made textiles have pushed many artisans to abandon the craft.5

It was against this backdrop that Bijiyashanti Tongbram, a young entrepreneur with a passion for sustainability, envisioned creating a product that combined cultural tradition with environmental responsibility. She discovered inspiration in the serene waters of Loktak Lake, where the lotus plant grows in abundance. The lotus flower holds spiritual and cultural symbolism in Manipuri society, representing purity and resilience. However, the stems of the lotus, which are discarded after the flowers are harvested for religious and ornamental purposes, had no economic value for the locals.6

Bijiyashanti saw potential where others saw waste. Drawing inspiration from Cambodia and Myanmar, where lotus silk weaving had existed as a niche craft, she decided to introduce lotus stem fiber extraction and weaving in India.7 This endeavour required learning a highly intricate and labour-intensive process: it takes nearly 40,000 lotus stems to produce a single meter of fabric.8 Additionally, lotus fiber is delicate and must be processed within 24 hours of harvesting to prevent damage. Despite these hurdles, Bijiyashanti launched her enterprise, positioning it as both a sustainable fashion initiative and a livelihood opportunity for local women.9

By founding Sanajing Sana Thambal, Bijiyashanti not only revived an ancient practice but also aligned her business model with global sustainability goals. Her enterprise aimed to reduce environmental waste, promote ethical fashion, and empower rural women artisans.10,11,12 However, translating this vision into a profitable and scalable business posed significant challenges, setting the stage for a critical decision.

The Challenge

By 2021, Bijiyashanti’s enterprise had begun to gain attention from sustainability advocates, media outlets, and boutique fashion buyers. The lotus silk scarves and stoles produced by her team were celebrated for their rarity, eco-friendliness, and cultural authenticity. Despite this growing recognition, the business faced several pressing challenges.

First, the production process remained extremely time-consuming and costly. The requirement of thousands of lotus stems for a small piece of fabric meant high input costs and dependency on seasonal availability. Second, scaling up the business posed a major dilemma.13 Increasing production could compromise the brand’s core values of handcrafted exclusivity and sustainable sourcing. At the same time, remaining a niche brand meant limited revenue and difficulty sustaining artisans’ livelihoods.

Additionally, Bijiyashanti had to decide whether to seek external funding and partnerships to expand operations.14 Investors often demanded faster growth and profitability, which could lead to industrialisation—something she feared might dilute the artisanal essence of the craft. Another concern was market acceptance: while sustainable fashion was gaining popularity globally, the Indian domestic market for such premium, eco-friendly products remained small and price-sensitive.

Standing at this crossroads, Bijiyashanti faced a tough question:

Should she scale up production by mechanising parts of the process and attracting external investors, or should she preserve the craft’s authenticity by staying small, even if that meant slower growth and uncertain profits?

Understanding the Evolving Market Landscape

Bijiyashanti Tongbram began noticing a shift in the nature of her customer base. Early sales had come through word-of-mouth, local exhibitions, and ethical gifting circles. But now, inquiries were arriving from unexpected quarters—urban professionals in Bengaluru and Mumbai, boutique curators in Delhi, and even international designers interested in sustainable textiles.15 These were not everyday impulse buyers; they represented a growing market segment of values-driven consumers who actively sought out ethical, handmade products. This evolution hinted at an opportunity—but also presented new challenges.

Without consciously applying a textbook strategy, Bijiyashanti had already begun to practice a form of segmentation by responding to the unique characteristics of her buyers. The people purchasing Lotus Silk scarves weren’t defined by income alone—they were shaped by lifestyle and mindset. Many were minimalists who rejected fast fashion, spiritual seekers who appreciated the cultural symbolism of the lotus, or socially conscious shoppers who wanted their purchases to contribute to a cause. Their buying behaviour reflected deeper psychological traits: respect for nature, interest in indigenous knowledge systems, and support for women’s empowerment. In many ways, the brand’s core appeal lay not in mass fashion preferences but in psychographic and behavioural segments, where the product’s meaning carried more weight than its trendiness.

With time, a clearer picture of her audience emerged, leading to more focused targeting. Rather than attempting to serve a broad swathe of the market, Bijiyashanti consciously directed her efforts toward a niche group - urban, educated, environmentally aware consumers who viewed consumption as a moral act. These individuals were less sensitive to price and more attuned to process, provenance, and purpose. Many were professionals who appreciated craft, artists who admired cultural authenticity, or expatriates who longed for a meaningful connection to Indian traditions. They preferred small-batch, handmade products over industrial finishes. By focusing on this segment, Bijiyashanti was able to maintain the enterprise’s core values while also ensuring commercial viability. It was a niche targeting strategy, rooted in depth rather than scale.

This intentional narrowing of the audience was mirrored in the way the brand shaped its identity—its positioning. Lotus Silk was never marketed as a trendy fashion label. There were no seasonal collections, celebrity endorsements, or high-volume discounts. Instead, the brand positioned itself as a quiet alternative: a textile born from sacred wetlands, woven by rural women, and aligned with ecological harmony. Promotional materials emphasised the story behind the product rather than the product itself - highlighting the extraction of lotus fibers at dawn, the hours spent spinning and weaving, and the journey of an underutilised plant into a luxury fabric. The visual language was rooted in nature: pale creams, water hues, and imagery of Loktak Lake. This deliberate narrative shaped customer perception, anchoring the brand as one that stood for cultural resilience, ecological care, and ethical artistry.

For Bijiyashanti, this carefully nurtured identity presented both strength and constraint. The more her brand was associated with slowness, rarity, and manual precision, the harder it became to meet growing demand.16 Buyers increasingly expected availability, faster shipping, and wider variety but scaling up too quickly risked diluting the brand’s positioning. As the business matured, Bijiyashanti found herself at a crossroads. Would expanding production, perhaps through selective mechanisation or partnerships, change the way Lotus Silk was perceived by its core audience? Could she preserve her niche while responding to rising interest? Or would entering broader markets blur the very message that had made the brand so compelling in the first place?

The market analysis revealed that while global sustainable fashion is growing at 10.3% annually.17 the Indian consumer base for ultra-premium ethical products remained limited. Competing on price was not an option because of the high production cost. Instead, the value proposition had to focus on luxury, exclusivity, and sustainability storytelling. Bijiyashanti realised that her challenge was not just operational—it was strategic: How to balance scale, authenticity, and profitability without compromising core values?

The Marketing Strategy

Bijiyashanti knew that producing a unique product like lotus silk was not enough to sustain her enterprise; she needed to position it strategically in the market. With limited resources and no large-scale advertising budget, her focus was on creating a differentiated value proposition that resonated with conscious consumers. To achieve this, she relied on the principles of the Marketing Mix, often referred to as the 7Ps.

Product Strategy

Sanajing Sana Thambal’s primary offering is handcrafted scarves, stoles, and accessories made from pure lotus fiber, extracted without the use of chemicals or synthetic dyes. Each product is unique due to its texture and labour-intensive production process.18 Unlike conventional silk, lotus silk is lightweight, soft, and considered spiritually pure in many Asian traditions. The brand capitalised on these features to appeal to consumers who value authenticity, sustainability, and ethical luxury. Every product carries a story of cultural heritage, women’s empowerment, and environmental stewardship—attributes that make it more than just an accessory.19

Price Strategy

Pricing posed a challenge. The production of a single scarf could take several days due to the painstaking process of fiber extraction and weaving.20 This made mass production impossible, pushing the brand into the premium pricing category. The prices were deliberately kept high to reflect the exclusivity and craftsmanship involved, aligning with the expectations of a niche market segment that values sustainability and artisanal products. However, this also raised concerns could price become a barrier for larger adoption, or would the exclusivity drive demand?

Place (Distribution)

Sanajing Sana Thambal adopted a direct-to-consumer approach, primarily leveraging exhibitions, craft fairs, and word-of-mouth marketing within high-end fashion and sustainability circles. In addition, Bijiyashanti explored online channels, including social media and boutique e-commerce platforms that cater to eco-conscious consumers.21 Physical retail presence was limited due to production constraints, but the brand maintained strong local visibility by partnering with government handicraft hubs and cultural showcases.

Promotion Strategy

Operating on a limited marketing budget, Sanajing Sana Thambal relied heavily on storytelling as a promotional tool. Bijiyashanti often highlighted the brand’s origin story, its sustainable practices, and the empowerment of local women artisans in interviews and digital campaigns. Features in sustainability magazines, government reports, and cultural programs amplified the brand’s visibility without significant advertising spend. Social media, particularly Instagram and Facebook, have become platforms for showcasing the handcrafted process, thereby reinforcing authenticity and transparency.22

People

The workforce behind Sanajing Sana Thambal primarily consisted of local women artisans, trained to extract fibers and weave products manually.23, 24 Their role was not just operational but central to the brand identity. Bijiyashanti positioned them as brand ambassadors, emphasising their craftsmanship and contribution to women’s economic empowerment. Customer service also played a vital role—personalised interactions during exhibitions and online consultations created a strong bond with niche buyers.

Process

The production process was intricate and time-consuming, starting from collecting lotus stems to extracting fibers and weaving them into finished textiles.25 This manual, a zero-chemical process aligned with global sustainability standards, also imposed scalability limitations. Bijiyashanti faced a dilemma: should she stick to the traditional methods to maintain authenticity or adopt mechanisation to meet growing demand? For now, the process remained manual, ensuring quality over quantity.

Physical Evidence

For a brand built on trust and authenticity, physical evidence mattered. Sanajing Sana Thambal ensured that its products were accompanied by eco-friendly packaging, informational tags explaining the story behind the fiber, and certifications of authenticity from government bodies. Bijiyashanti also used high-quality visuals in brochures and social media posts to reflect the premium nature of the products. Moreover, Recognition in a widely broadcast program like Mann Ki Baat acts as a credible endorsement and documentation, which becomes part of the organisation’s visible proof of achievement and authenticity.26

Despite crafting a well-aligned marketing strategy, Bijiyashanti continued to face challenges. The biggest question was: Could a brand positioned on exclusivity and tradition scale without losing its essence? How could Sanajing Sana Thambal balance premium pricing with accessibility, manual processes with demand, and local heritage with global aspirations?

Core Competencies and Market Dynamics

As the demand for sustainable and eco-conscious products grows, it becomes essential to analyze the internal strengths and weaknesses of Sanajing Sana Thambal alongside the external opportunities and threats shaping its business environment. This SWOT analysis provides insights into how the enterprise can leverage its unique attributes while navigating challenges in a highly competitive fashion industry.

Strengths

One of the most significant strengths of the enterprise lies in its exclusive use of lotus stem fiber, a material that is rare, eco-friendly, and biodegradable.27 This distinctiveness not only differentiates the brand from mainstream silk producers but also appeals to environmentally conscious consumers. Additionally, the enterprise promotes handcrafted techniques and employs local artisans, preserving traditional weaving skills and empowering rural women.28 Such ethical sourcing and social impact enhance the brand’s credibility and align with global sustainability narratives. The limited, artisanal production also reinforces the perception of exclusivity and luxury, making the product aspirational.

Weaknesses

Despite its uniqueness, the brand faces production scalability challenges. Extracting lotus fiber is labour-intensive and time-consuming, resulting in low output and higher costs. Consequently, pricing becomes a barrier for middle-income consumers, confining the brand to a niche market. Furthermore, the lack of strong branding and digital marketing capabilities limits its ability to create global awareness and compete with established sustainable fashion brands. Dependence on manual processes also exposes the enterprise to operational inefficiencies, making it difficult to meet increasing demand.

Opportunities

The rising consumer preference for sustainable fashion globally provides a significant growth avenue for Sanajing Sana Thambal. The brand can position itself as a luxury, sustainable label catering to affluent, eco-conscious buyers in both domestic and international markets. Government initiatives promoting handloom and organic textiles also open avenues for subsidies and support. Moreover, the growing trend of slow fashion and ethical consumerism presents opportunities for storytelling-based marketing, collaborations with sustainable designers, and entry into premium online marketplaces that cater to conscious consumers.

Threats

The enterprise faces potential threats from fast fashion giants introducing low-cost “green” collections, which could dilute consumer attention and shift demand toward cheaper alternatives. Additionally, climate-related uncertainties impacting lotus cultivation pose a serious risk to raw material availability. Market volatility and fluctuating consumer preferences could also affect demand for luxury eco-products. Lastly, intellectual property risks, such as imitation of lotus fiber-based products by competitors, could undermine the brand’s uniqueness if not adequately protected.

Conclusion

Bijiyashanti Tongbram’s journey with Sanajing Sana Thambal exemplifies the delicate balance between sustainability, cultural preservation, and business viability in the fashion industry. Her innovation transformed what was once considered waste into a rare and luxurious fabric, creating livelihoods for rural women while promoting eco-conscious values. However, as the enterprise gains recognition, Bijiyashanti must navigate a critical juncture: whether to embrace scale and mechanisation to meet growing demand or maintain the handcrafted, zero-waste ethos that defines the brand. The decision holds significant implications not just for the financial future of the enterprise but for its cultural and environmental identity. Scaling up could attract investors and broaden market reach, but risks compromising authenticity and sustainability. Conversely, remaining a niche, artisan-led initiative safeguards core values but may limit growth and profitability. Ultimately, the path Bijiyashanti chooses will shape the role of Sanajing Sana Thambal in India’s sustainable fashion movement and determine whether it becomes a scalable model for eco-entrepreneurship or remains a rare, handcrafted legacy rooted in tradition.

Exhibit 1: SWOT Analysis

Source: Created by the authors based on information from Sanajing Sana Thambal’s official website

Exhibit 2: Lotus Silk Production Process Map

Source: Created by the authors based on data from the Online Clothing study (2021)

References

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2. Sanajing Sana Thambal Private Limited. n.d. “About Us.” Sanajing Sana Thambal Private Limited.

Accessed August 6, 2025. https://sanajingsanathambal.com/.

3. Book of Achievers. 2021. “Weaving of Lotus Fibres Provides a Source of Income to the Local Weavers: Manipur Entrepreneur Who Taught the Art.” Book of Achievers. Accessed August 3, 2025. https:// bookofachievers.com/articles/lotus-fibre-weaved-to-make-eco-friendly-scarves-ties-masks.

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13. United Women of Influence Magazine. 2024. “Woman Entrepreneur from Manipur Is Weaving Success by Making Clothes from Lotus Stem Fibre.” United Women of Influence Magazine, July 30. Accessed August 5, 2025. https://www.unwomenmag.com/woman-entrepreneur-from-manipur-is-weaving-success-by-making-clothes-from-lotus-stem-fibre/.

14. United Women of Influence Magazine. 2024. “Woman Entrepreneur from Manipur Is Weaving Success by Making Clothes from Lotus Stem Fibre.” United Women of Influence Magazine, July 30. Accessed August 5, 2025. https://www.unwomenmag.com/woman-entrepreneur-from-manipur-is-weaving-success-by-making-clothes-from-lotus-stem-fibre/.

15. The North Eastern Chronicle (TNEC). 2023. “Lotus Threads: The Innovative Journey of Manipur’s Bijiyashanti Tongbram.” TNEC, December 19. Accessed August 3, 2025. https://www. northeasternchronicle.in/news/lotus-threads/.

16. United Women of Influence Magazine. 2024. “Woman Entrepreneur from Manipur Is Weaving Success by Making Clothes from Lotus Stem Fibre.” United Women of Influence Magazine, July 30. Accessed August 5, 2025. https://www.unwomenmag.com/woman-entrepreneur-from-manipur-is-weaving-success-by-making-clothes-from-lotus-stem-fibre/.

17. Global Market Insights. 2025. Sustainable Clothing Market – By Type, By Material, By Price Range, By End Use, By Distribution Channel – Global Forecast, 2025–2034. March. Accessed August 6, 2025. https://www.gminsights.com/industry-analysis/sustainable-clothing-market.

18. Tongbram, Bijiyashanti. 2024. An Enterprise Run by Women Making Handmade Organic Products. Accessed August 6, 2025. https://startupmanipur.in/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Sana_ Thambal.pdf.

19. Book of Achievers. 2021. “Weaving of Lotus Fibres Provides a Source of Income to the Local Weavers: Manipur Entrepreneur Who Taught the Art.” Book of Achievers. Accessed August 3, 2025. https:// bookofachievers.com/articles/lotus-fibre-weaved-to-make-eco-friendly-scarves-ties-masks.

20. United Women of Influence Magazine. 2024. “Woman Entrepreneur from Manipur Is Weaving Success by Making Clothes from Lotus Stem Fibre.” United Women of Influence Magazine, July 30. Accessed August 5, 2025. https://www.unwomenmag.com/woman-entrepreneur-from-manipur-is-weaving-success-by-making-clothes-from-lotus-stem-fibre/.

21. United Women of Influence Magazine. 2024. “Woman Entrepreneur from Manipur Is Weaving Success by Making Clothes from Lotus Stem Fibre.” United Women of Influence Magazine, July 30. Accessed August 5, 2025. https://www.unwomenmag.com/woman-entrepreneur-from-manipur-is-weaving-success-by-making-clothes-from-lotus-stem-fibre/.

22. United Women of Influence Magazine. 2024. “Woman Entrepreneur from Manipur Is Weaving Success by Making Clothes from Lotus Stem Fibre.” United Women of Influence Magazine, July 30. Accessed August 5, 2025. https://www.unwomenmag.com/woman-entrepreneur-from-manipur-is-weaving-success-by-making-clothes-from-lotus-stem-fibre/.

23. Tongbram, Bijiyashanti. 2024. An Enterprise Run by Women Making Handmade Organic Products. Accessed August 6, 2025. https://startupmanipur.in/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Sana_ Thambal.pdf.

24. NDTV. 2022. “Waste to Wealth: Bijayshanti Tongbram from Manipur Makes Lotus Silk, One of the World’s Rarest Fabrics.” NDTV, September 5. Accessed August 6, 2025. https://special.ndtv. com/clothes-with-a-conscience-100/news-detail/waste-to-wealth-bijayshanti-tongbram-from-manipur-makes-lotus-silk-one-of-the-worlds-rarest-fabrics-3316198/7

25. Tongbram, Bijiyashanti. 2024. An Enterprise Run by Women Making Handmade Organic Products. Accessed August 6, 2025. https://startupmanipur.in/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Sana_ Thambal.pdf.

26. NDTV. 2022. “Waste to Wealth: Bijayshanti Tongbram from Manipur Makes Lotus Silk, One of the World’s Rarest Fabrics.” NDTV, September 5. Accessed August 6, 2025. https://special.ndtv. com/clothes-with-a-conscience-100/news-detail/waste-to-wealth-bijayshanti-tongbram-from-manipur-makes-lotus-silk-one-of-the-worlds-rarest-fabrics-3316198/7.

27. The  Assam  Tribune.  2022.  “Weaving  Success:  Manipur  Woman  Seeks  to  Employ  More  Locals  in Her  Lotus  Silk  Venture.”  The  Assam  Tribune,  September  11.  Accessed  August  7,  2025.  https:// assamtribune.com/north-east/weaving-success-manipur-woman-seeks-to-employ-more-locals-in-her-lotus-silk-venture-1438179.

28. The Indian Express. 2020. “Spinning a Success Story: How a Manipur Woman Is Getting Noticed for Her Lotus Fibre Products.” The Indian Express, October 8. Accessed August 5, 2025. https:// indianexpress.com/article/north-east-india/manipur/how-a-manipur-woman-is-getting-noticed-for-her-lotus-fibre-products-6716389/.